Basic weaves

There is basically an unlimited number of weaves that can be developed, but weave patterns have three basic designs:

Plain weave
Twill weave
Satin weave
Examples
Exercise

Twill weave

Twill weave report

A weft-base Twill 1/2 Z weave reportA weft-base Twill 1/2 Z weave report

Twill weave pattern

Twill 1/2 Z weave pattern Twill 1/2 Z weave pattern

This pattern can be described in the formula:

T12Z

Where:

  • T = Twill
  • Fractional line = warp rise above and weft rise below
  • Z = twill direction

Satin weave

Satin weave has just one weave point for each warp in the weave report. The points of interlacing should be scattered over the weave and cannot be placed side by side.

Satin weave report

A weft-faced satin with the report 5x5 and step number 3 A weft-faced satin with the report 5x5 and step number 3

Satin weave pattern

Satin 1/4  weave patternSatin 1/4  weave pattern

This pattern can be described in the formula:

S14(3)

Where:

  • S = satin
  • Fractional line = warp rise above and weft rise below
  • (x) = step number
    The step number cannot be 1 or a number equally divisible by the report number.

Examples

  • The possible step numbers for a report 5*5: 2 and 3
  • The possible step numbers for a report 7*7: 2, 3, 4 and 5
  • The possible step numbers for a report 8*8: 3 and 5

Three steps are required to draw a satin pattern:

  1. Adding the numbers in the formula to get the report. In the figure: 1 + 4 = 5 which means the report is 5 * 5 squares or threads.
  2. Beginning from the left corner with a filled square for a weft-faced satin or an empty square for a warp-faced satin. In this figure it is a weft-faced satin.
  3. Count the number of squares equaling the step number and step to the right. Fill it for a weft-faced satin or keep it empty for a warp-faced satin.

Exercise

Match the formula for each weave pattern below. Drag the formula above the corresponding image.

  • S14(3)
  • S14(2)
  • S14(3)
  • S14(2)

Check answers...

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This resource was developed as part of an Erasmus+ project, funded with support from the European Commission under grant agreement 2016-1-SE01-KA203-22064.

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